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Archive for the ‘Umbria’ Category

We’ve just finished our last art/culture trip. We’ve sold the business after 15 years. The last 13 of the 15 we married a variety of art courses to the inspiration of Italian life. It has been transformative.

When we began we knew only that the way Italians lived and the intimacy and beauty of Orvieto’s streets, piazzas and buildings touched a cord in us. Over time we discovered that this pairing of art and place reconnected people to their souls. It has been beautiful. Humbling. Evocative. Renewing. Affirming. Yes, transformative.

Changing times and particularly the way technology erodes the ability to be in the moment have had an impact. But even through this very last trip art, Orvieto, and staying in one place absorbing for a week resulted in many people recounting to us how life changing the experience was.

It is a struggle for people to stay connected to their souls, to that inner compass always there to guide us, to stay true to who we individually are. What we have been so privileged to witness is how a week here with us in Orvieto reconnects people to themselves. We have received countless letters, postcards and emails telling us how the trip was a blessing, a milestone, a life changer. It’s not us. It’s this place and way of fulling engaging life, interpreted through a creative medium, that opens eyes to truly see.

Orvieto as seen from Palazzone vineyard

It touched Kristi and me early. Four years in we returned to the U.S. and knew we had to make a change. After four years of biannual visits where we were deeply connected to people and life we could no longer live an anonymous, American suburban life. We began the search. Two years later our house went on the market and we moved to to a connected, soulful, rich life in a small town.

We are lucky. The people who traveled with us are lucky. We’ve all found – or more accurately – uncovered our soul – for it has always been there waiting patiently. For this we have Orvieto, her people, her way of life, and the creative pursuits that helped see it better to thank. There is no way to adequately say thank you. The many soulful lives growing out of the experiences here however, bear testimony to what a great gift this place has given.

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Orvieto Images

From the last few days.

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Today was the Corteo Storico, Orvieto’s incredible parade of hundreds in medieval costume. The parade was held but cancelled part way through due to rain. Still, we got to see two of the four elements, each different, each full of color, pageantry, drama. Here is one part.

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Our friend Alberto, who basically runs the parade

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Just a couple of the dozens of different flags

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The level of craftsmanship in the costumes, flags, weapons is just stunning. Such a treat to experience this exceptional Orvieto tradition!

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Thursday the twice weekly market is in town full of the freshest produce. We went and gathered goodies for a picnic to have in the courtyard.

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In the afternoon we went out to Palazzone vineyard on a beautiful afternoon. It is just incredible as the afternoon progresses how the light gets softer and softer turning the hills into the gentlest velvet.

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A bit of the lawn in front of the locanda built around 1200

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Orvieto in the background

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The view of Orvieto from the terrace where we tasted 4 wines and these delicacies.

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Back on the rock after dinner – an evening stroll.

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Just hard not to love this place!!

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At the end of our first full day we do a wine and food pairing dinner with Graziella, Rita, and Carla. We’ve done this dozens of times and it is always different. Amazing the variety, and the creativity of these powerhouse women.

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This was the appetizer plate. Eggplant flan with a squash puree on top, truffle on bread, arugula pesto and more. This was preceded with bruschetta using Rita and Carla’s unbelievable olive oil.

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Asparagus pasta

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For the secondo we had lamb and a salad. Not pictured was panna cotta with strawberries for dessert. Each course came with a different wine that Graziella helped us taste and appreciate with the food it was paired.

Next night we went to make pasta with Maurizio, followed by dinner on the pasta we had made.

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Emma, Maurizio’s daughter who I have known since she was one, joined us for her first ever pasta making lesson.

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Maurizio had this beautiful machine that rolls out the dough in a heartbeat. Very cool!

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Angel hair, tagliatelle, fettuccine, and papperdelle all coming from the dough we made.

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There are about 230 different pasta shapes in Italy! Maurizio showed us just a few of the possibilities.

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This long one I want to try at home. It holds lots of sauce. Need to go back and get the name of it from him! Then came the dinner.

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The appetizer plate that includes a little omelette, a little quiche, two baby pizzas, and one made with turnips. Mamma Mia!

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The primis. Two pastas – one with a ragu sauce and one with eggplant. In front is risotto made with saffron from his garden. Incredible! And he showed us a new way to get the risotto started I’ll be trying at home.

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The secondi. Wild boar, roast beef, bacon, roasted potato, and look how he made flowers with the veggies!

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Maurizio is a pastry chef by training. This was dessert, all of it delectable.

So that was two nights with of yum. Last night we ate at Cibus. The have a new, beautiful menu.

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A big bowl of mussels and sea bream. Two big, beautiful salads to finish the night.

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Cappuccino at the market before shopping for a picnic lunch. Food in Italy! Buon appetito!!

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Back in Orvieto. I get here and my camera just jumps into my hand. I’ve seen it all before multiple times, but it still inspires, stirs the heart and soul. So here are a few pictures.

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As our friend Alberto says, “We dress or city” as the banners go up for the biggest celebration of the year, the incredible medieval parade of hundreds in period costume which will take place May 29. Below you get a sense of why Umbria is called the green heart of Italy. They have had a wet spring so it is really, really green!

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San Giovenale is my favorite church. So sweet, so dear, so simple, so beautiful.

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For those of you who have been here, you know we were morose last fall as our favorite cafe, Scarponnis, was closed. It was old world, traditional, formal. We watched as the space was being renovated. It is done and it is beautiful, modern, slick, cozy. Coffee is as good as ever and it is also a restaurant we will soon try. We once again are able to enjoy a coffee watching the market unfold on Thursday and Saturday. We knew the owner Valentina just a little bit and she is friends with our good friends Nick and Simona, with whom we cook. Have a look.

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A few more shots and then I’m off to enjoy the streets!!

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For the third year Misty brought her magic to Orvieto this fall. She had new students and half who had been with her and us in Orvieto before. Such fun! Here is the group and a taste of their beautiful work.

Misty with her group

Misty with her group

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe also had a group doing Discover Orvieto during the week. We did many things, but one was to travel to Allerona to cook with our friend Simona. She is a wonderful teacher, and we had such a good meal!!

Simona got us all involved

Simona got us all involved

We went into her garden at her house in the countryside to pick fresh ingredients

We went into the garden at her house in the countryside to pick fresh ingredients

One of the dishes we cooked

One of the dishes we cooked

Could you guess we were in an Italian home?

Could you guess we were in an Italian home?

The Discover Orvieto group

The Discover Orvieto group

There were spouses and friends of Misty’s group in Discover Orvieto. We all shared in meals, wine tastings, vineyard tour and more.

Here we all are together

Here we all are together

Great memories, and future trips to look forward to!

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