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Archive for October, 2015

We spent a delightful, if cold, day visiting a few places with Cristina. We had a pretty drive to Civita.

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View from Civita

Cristina showed us an old escape route under the city. This view let us appreciate how narrow the city really is.

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We’re on one side and you can see the other through the tunnel.

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Soup was perfect for the day

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Bolsena fort

Next was Bolsena where the miracle leading to the building of the Duomo in Orvieto took place. The basilica San Cristina, below, is where the miracle happened.

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The church is actually three, each built at a different time.

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Inside San Cristina

After, we walked down to lake Bolsena for a coffee.

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Thank you Cristina for a beautiful day!!

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Wow! We had a wonderful new experience yesterday. It was a first for us and for Maurizio and Roberta who, for the first time, hosted a beer tasting/food pairing at their artisanal brewery Cento Litri.

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Maurizio introduced us to, and took us through, his beer making process.

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He ferments the must at different temperatures depending on the style of beer. In some, the yeast settles to the bottom and he removes it before drawing the must off. His beer is unfiltered, and develops the carbonation once in the bottle as it continues to ferment.

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His laboratory is spotless and gleaming.

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The house which sits above the brewery was hand made by Maurizio and his father-in-law. It took 7 years to complete, and is gorgeous. They just finished enclosing this porch, which is where we had our tasting/dinner.

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Maurizio prepares the beer. The sun continued to drop and the light fade.

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Antipasti with one kind of beer – a biondo. Roberta made the bread, and jam, and friends made the cheese and lardo. The rest of dinner was her wonderful creation.

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Gnocchi with mushrooms, and an American pale ale.

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The sun set, the moon followed, our happy selves reflected in the glass.

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Cinghiale, some of the best we’ve ever had, and look at that potato. Mama mia!

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Dessert beer?  Yes, my goodness, yes! It complemented the apple and fig tart so incredibly well.

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There we are enjoying the end of a delightful evening.

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The end. Thank you Maurizio, Roberta and Graziella!! What an incredible time you gave us.

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We went to the market to shop with Lorenzo prior to returning to his restaurant to cook.

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We got a kilo of these grown on the roots of a chestnut tree

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Weighing or fennel

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Never seen this guy selling at the market before

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Light reflecting off Palazzo Popolo windows

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I didn't get the stripe memo

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Zuppa!

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It was a rainy day, but we enjoyed a great day in the country going to Civita Bagnoregio.

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This is the second time in our 13 years traveling Italy that we have run into sheep on the road. For Kristi, a sheep rancher’s daughter, who trailed sheep in the Colorado mountains, this was sheer bliss. Fun for the rest of us too!!

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Climbing up to the village

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A view difficult to capture when the light is bright

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Flowers glorious in town as always

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And the surrounding countryside.

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One more visit to Civita this season!

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This is our Taste of Orvieto week, so it’s all about food. So a bit of a sampling. (http://www.adventuresinitaly.net/taste-orvieto.html)

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A lunch sampler at Folk Osteria

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Appetizers with Rita and Graziella at Bartolomei

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Tomaso from the gelateria next door delivers dessert

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Chocolate stuffed with three different gelatos

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The group with Rita, Graziella, and Tomaso

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Simona always does everything beautifully

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And gets everybody involved

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Glazed pear wrapped in ricotta and pancetta

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Lemon, limoncello, almond cake

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Missing Simona and Nick on this pic

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This is just a monumentally beautiful landscape with some pretty decent man made things thrown in!

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It has been mostly cloudy, giving us moody days. The sun has poked through on occasion, however, spotlighting things.

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From Kotor looking up the mountain behind

The defensive walls and forts above Kotor reflected in the water last night.
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Risan has some beautiful 2nd century Roman mosaics. Tiny, little, subtlety different colored stones. Gorgeous. And just incredible what the Romans accomplished in such far flung places of the world.
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We can see Perast from our apartment, but this view is from the water on a boat taking us to Madonna of the Rocks which occupies all of a small island in the bay.

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Madonna of the Rocks

Below views from the island.

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Dubrovnik to Kotor

We left Dubrovnik yesterday morning just beating the mobs of crowds that were pouring in. A nice city, it is swamped with tourists. We made the beautiful drive along the Adriatic coast back into Montenegro and the bay of Kotor.

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The bay is described by some as the southernmost fjord in Europe and by others as a submerged river gorge. Whatever it is, it’s beautiful!

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Above looking through the narrow opening that leads to Kotor and below looking from Kotor back.

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This is what we found on our arrival!!

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The ship below right, absolutely dwarfs the Venetian era fort, below left. The ship rises up 6 stories from the bow.

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Another mobbed city! But again, a beautiful place with stunning setting.

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The Venetians were incredible in the forts they built up steep mountainsides for defense. We’ve seen another example in Nafplio, Greece. Seaside fort in the foreground with forts and walls climbing the mountain. Also a church up there on the hill.

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The night view

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Bicycle powered "truck" useful on narrow streets

Blissfully, that tour boat pulled out about 6 p.m. and we had a beautiful dinner at one of the many nice restaurants.

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Our accommodations were a bit skanky, so we decided to find something nicer and to get away from the crowds. We are now happily ensconced in a seaside apartment, 20 minutes from Kotor, with these views.

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As we drove out we encountered this fellow lumbering into the bay, confirming our decision to get away.

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And have been rewarded with this strange rainbow.

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Back into town this evening to enjoy a decidedly interesting city and more good food.

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We flew from Rome to Podgorica, Montenegro where we got a car. The fight in was something with these rustic, rustic mountains as we flew in to Podgorica.

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We traveled into downtown Podgorica. It had the hallmark look of Soviet era architecture – rough, cold concrete. Had lunch where the waiter proudly served his specialty – smoked salmon with big hunks of feta and an oil/lemon sauce.

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From there it was through the mountains into Bosnia – Herzegovina. The Montenegro side was tough looking with lots of roofless, empty buildings making us wonder if they were a result of the war. When we got to Bosnia the landscape was transformed – beautiful, well maintained.

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Countryside church in Bosnia-Herzegovina

We came out of a gorge into the town of Trebinje. It is a place I’d like to explore sometime, but we didn’t have time. On to Dubrovnik. This was the first view of the Adriatic.

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And of Dubrovnik

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Quite the setting, and charming travel companions!!

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Our wonderful hosts took us to their free parking and we had a nice long walk back through the city – a little exercise after a day of seated travel.

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Couldn’t have timed this boat’s passage any better.

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Melissa Harris’s watercolor week just finished. I always stand in amazement of what is produced and the individuality of each artist. Wish I could do this!!

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